Thursday, July 30, 2015

DIY: Rabbit Hutch Design #2

Not long ago I posted a rabbit hutch design that I built for my neighbors.  They have a lot of rabbits and needed six cages to house them.

I had been thinking about raising rabbits for our own homestead needs and after speaking with them about the project, I decided that now was the time to do so.

However, we do not have as much space to dedicate to the furry creatures as they do.  We also don't have as many to house.  So after completing the project for my neighbors I then turned my attention to planning a bunny house for our own needs.

DIY: Rabbit Hutch Design #2



4 - 2x4
7 - 1x4
1 - 3/4" 2x2 Plywood
Wood Glue
5/8" Narrow Crown Staples
1-1/4" Brad Nails
3" screws
Corrugated sheet metal
4 Door hinges
2 Latches
Wire Mesh for the floor
Outdoor Wood Protection

Special Tools Used in the Video



Cut List

Front Frame

2 Legs @ 1.5 x 1.5 x 36
2 Cross Frame Pieces @ 1.5" x 1.5" x 42"
1 Center Vertical Piece 15-3/8"

Trim Pieces (Front Frame)


2 Trim Pieces @ .75 x 1" x 15-3/8"
4 Trim Pieces @ .75" x 1" x 16-7/8" 68
2 Trim Pieces @ .75 x 1" x 10"
1 Trim Piece @ .75" x 2" x 27
1 Trim Piece @ .75 x 1" x 27"

Back Frame


2 Legs @ 1.5" x 1.5" x 32-13/16"
2 Cross Frame Pieces @ 1.5" x 1.5" x 42"

Trim Pieces (Back Frame) 


2 Trim Pieces @ .75" x 1" x 12-3/16"
3 Trim Pieces @ .75"x 1" x 13-11/16"

Back Slats


3 Back Piece 1x4's @ 42"
1 Back Piece @ 2-1/16" x 42"

2 connection pieces @ 24"
1 Center Divider Piece @  18-3/8" x 24"
10 Side Piece 1x4's @ 24"

Screen Door

2 Rails @ 2.5" x 23"
2 Stiles @ 2.5" x 14-3/8"

Blind Door

2 Stiles @ 2.5" x 14-3/8"
2 Rails @ 2.5" x 6"
3 Middles Rails @ 3" x 6"


 Corrugated Sheet Metal @ 45" x 33"

Step 1

Assemble the front frame as shown.  Two 3" screws at each joint will be sufficient.

Step 2

Attach the trim pieces to the front frame.  Once this is completed it is time to move on to the back frame next.

Step 3

Assemble the back frame.  Be sure to note the height at which you attach the lower cross piece and ensure that measurement corresponds with the measurement for the front frame.  If these two measurements are off then the floor of the hutch will not be level.

Step 4

Attach the trim pieces to the back frame.

Step 5


Attach the rear slats.

Step 6

Attach the final trim piece to the back frame.

Step 7

(Slats for the rear frame have been removed from the pic for better visualization of the next steps.)

Time to connect the front and back frames together.  Once this step is completed do not allow the assembled rabbit hutch frame to be subjected to a lot of lateral forces as you run the risk of weakening the connections you just made.

Don't worry, we will add lateral force stability to the unit in just a moment.

Step 8

Cut the center hutch divider to size and shape.

Step 9

Slide the center divider in place between the trim pieces of the front frame and to one side of the trim piece on the back frame.  Glue and brad nails can be used to secure this piece in place.

Step 10

Attach the side slats.  The side slats rest on the inside of the trim pieces attached to the front and rear frames.   (Obviously the rear slats have already been attached in step 5.)

Step 11

Time to assemble the two doors and attach to the hutch.

Since this is a simple door for a simple rabbit hutch I see no reason why pocket holes can not be used.  Just keep them on the inside of the door obviously.

Then attach hardware cloth using 5/8" narrow crown staples to the inside of the door.

The small door is designed to be solid.  This is so the whole idea of the burrow hide away area remains private.  Rabbits can be shy creatures and scare easily.  I felt I wanted to incorporate an area where she can go and get away from it all if she chooses.

Step 12

The roof I choose is corrugated sheet metal that can be purchased at any home improvement store.  It can be found in 8' lengths ranging from 18" to 36" in width.  The helpful folks at your store will probably be more than willing to cut it to size for you.  Doesn't hurt to ask.

Step 13

The only thing left to do is attach the hardware cloth to the floor of the rabbit hutch and to the inside of the screen door.  5/8" narrow crown staples are my choice for this application.

Final Thoughts

Each rabbit hutch design has its own pros and cons.  Weigh what is important for you and for the purpose you are keeping rabbits.  Each reason will require a slightly different design of hutch.

If you have one that you would like designed, feel free to contact me.    


  1. I really enjoy your videos! My son and I will be building a version of this design for his FFA rabbits. Keep up the good work!

  2. When I build the cages I support the wire mesh floor with pvc 1/2" pipe filled, it gives support and makes for easy cleaning. I also make thin dado's in the side rails and insert the hardware cloth into them and use glue and screws to hold it tight. I do this also with the doors, that way it's less chance of the animal getting hurt on the wire. Thanks for your information

  3. PS another idea on the doors is to use a thin rabbit, lay the screen wire in place and then use 3/4 " strips of metal to fasten them down, rabbits like to eat the wood on the edge of the doors the metal strips protect the door.

  4. Could you give a ruff estimate on how much it costs in materials to build this?

  5. What was used for the trim pieces?

  6. I love this design, and I just built two hutches for my rabbits that are a variation on this design. I did wire mesh all around except the back, for which I just used plywood instead of slats. My roof isn't slanted and instead of corrugated metal, I used a piece of plywood attached to the frame with a 30" piano hinge. Even with larger doors, being able to reach into the cage to move rabbits or clean the hutch is so convenient. Did you add a tray below the cage to catch manure? I added a drawer made from 1x4's coated in latex paint as a manure tray. One thing to be careful of if you decide to use 2x2s instead of ripping down 2x4s is that the treated 2x2 lumber I used was actually 1-5/16 x 1-5/16" and not 1-1/2x1-1/2. This can throw off the dimensions of your doors if you don't adjust for this in advance.

  7. Could you give an estament on how much it cost to do this project?

  8. If i were to make this in a double-decker what would those cutting adjustments be?


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