Storage is a great thing. If your like me and have trouble with commitment, then mobile storage is perfect.
NOTE: This project goes along with another project post. The DIY: Wooden Storage Crate.
They are designed to fit into the slots for this project. You could also just place a piece of plywood cut to size on each tier to create a shelf if so desired.
The different tiers can be placed at any incremental distance from each other allowing even more flexibility. Move a crate to the next tier up to store extra tall items in the basket below it or vise versa.
DIY: Roll Around Storage Cabinet
16 - 2x2's @ 72"
8 - 2x2's @ 16"
8 - 2x2's @ 15"
8 - 3/4" x 3/4" pieces @ 72"
32 - 3/4" rail pieces @ 10.5" x 1.25"
21 - 1x4's @ 12"
1-1/4" Brad Nails
3" #9 or #10 Deck Screws
4 - 4-1/2" Locking Casters
TIPS: The following measurements may be substituted.
1.5" = 1x2's
2.5" = 1x3's
3.5" = 1x4's
5.5" = 1x6's
All boards used are 3/4" thick unless otherwise noted.
Use caution working with solid lumber wider than 1x6's. Especially soft woods such as pine. I find they show a greater propensity to warp, twist and cup. Gluing boards side by side, otherwise known as a glue up, will offer greater stability across the project.
I do not advise eliminating one of the center frames. Save the side slates on one of the frames if you must but not the whole frame. That would mean you have joints of screws into end grain or pocket holes on end grain. Neither of which is advisable for a project that will be subjected to a lot of torque as you grab one side and push or pull on it. This is a big enough project that unless your storing cotton balls on it, it will be supporting a lot of weight, which means more torque when you move it.
Screws that are driven into end grain or near end grain are notoriously weak.
By building the project as two distinct units and joining them together we take a lot of the pressure off of the joints as a whole and allow it to be shared between two units.
If your plan is to leave the casters off of it and secure it against a wall then the same consideration need not apply because the potential forces in question would not apply.
When I ripped the frame pieces to width from the 2x4's I did not cut them exactly in half. I ripped them to the specified 1-1/2 inches. This gave me a 1/4" strip of lumber that will be perfect to use for the crates that accompany this project.
I measured down every 8" or so to place my rails for the bins. You could also measure down every 4 or 5 inches and that way you could just move one bin up or down a level depending on how tall the items are in each bin. Nothing says you have to use every rail you supply at all times.
If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. You can email me, visit me on Facebook or just leave a comment here or in the comments section of the video.