This is a story of a shoe rack. It was a simple shoe rack. All the other shoe racks laughed and made fun of it. Until one day...
I was at IKEA with my family not long ago. You know how they have different styles of mock rooms? Each set up has different furniture and layouts. Supposedly it's designed to get you excited about not just any one piece, but a whole set of pieces.
You start envisioning your house with paper mache lamps and curtains for bathroom doors. Hey, don't knock it, they make a lot of what they have look really good and practical.
Anyway, rabbit trails. We were walking through the store looking at the different room set ups and I saw this shelf that was hung about six inches from the floor. I stared at it for a second wondering what in the world it could be for?
Oh, yeah! A shoe rack. Neat idea!
DIY: Shoe Rack
TIPS: The following measurements may be substituted.
1.5" = 1x2's
2.5" = 1x3's
3.5" = 1x4's
5.5" = 1x6's
Use caution working with solid lumber wider than 1x6's. Especially soft woods such as pine. I find they show a greater propensity to warp, twist and cup. Gluing boards side by side, otherwise known as a glue up, will offer greater stability across the project.
2 - Bottom shelf Pieces @ 18" x 3.5"
2 - Side pieces @ 4" x 3.5"
1 - Top piece @ 18" x 2.5"
1 - Back mounting rail @ 18" x 1.5"
Edge glue the two bottom shelf pieces together to make one shelf that is 7" wide.
Attach the side pieces using pocket holes from the bottom of the shelf.
Here are the measurements for the side pieces. Measure an inch over from the top front. Then mark 3/4" up from the bottom front. Connect those two dots and cut the waste.
Tip: These side pieces are so small I would not bother with power tools. A hand saw and a bench vise would make short work of this. It will make the job safer as well.
Attach the top piece. Pocket holes will prove a tight fit in this instance. This is where a 4v power screwdriver comes in handy or better yet, a stubby ratcheting hand power screwdriver.
Attach the back mounting rail. Pocket holes from the back angled up into the top piece will never be seen.
Shoes are placed toe first in the rack while heels hang over the edge. Shoes are leveraged against the top piece which keeps them from falling to the floor. This design makes it easy to place your shoes on the rack with your feet without having to bend over to do it.
Pocket holes are going to be a tight knuckle busting effort for the top piece. Of course their are several ways you could alleviate that delima. Through dowels could be used by clamping down on the sides and drilling for the dowels.
Alternatively, you could route a 1/4" rabbet in both of the side pieces for the top. Simple glue, clamps and time will take care of the rest. You would have to make sure to cut the top piece at 18.5" instead of the listed 18" length for this method.
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