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What is the difference between a shade arbor and a pergola? I pondered the question and decided to consult professor Google on the subject.
According to the fine folks at "Design You Trust.com" I came across the following,
"...arbors are traditionally smaller and are not really suited for sitting beneath"
I have no affiliation with that website. It's just a random one I came across on a simple Google search, but it seems reasonable. I'll take it. To be honest its not really imperative to the project at hand anyway.
On to bigger fish.
DIY: SHADE ARBOR
7 - 2x4s
4 - 1x4s (plus whatever you have decided for your trellis design.)
3 - 2x6s
4- 2x4 Post Pieces @ 84" (You may want to cut this an extra 6" longer if not using concrete to set the posts in the ground.)
4 - 1x4 Post Pieces @ 89.5" (Same thing for this measurement as well.)
2 - 2x6 Cross Beams @ 72"
5 - 2x4 Rafters @ 46.5"
4 - 2x6 Diagnal Cross Braces @ 24"
If you decide to design and build a trellis like I did you will need extra material for that. I used 1x4s and ripped them into strips 1-1/2" wide by 27" long. I spaced them 1-1/2" apart and attached them to a ledger secured between two posts.
First, I can not cover every possible scenario, outcome or concern here in this one blog post with a project like this. In the absence of building codes, one has to rely on a certain level of experience and understanding of their own circumstances.
Keep in mind that a lot of the techniques and ways of doing things depicted in the video are simply the way that I have come to realize gives me the best and longest lasting results based on my experience. They may or may not be appropriate for you or your geographical location.
Case in Point
It seems to be well known that when setting posts you set them with concrete footers. However, in my experience, I have found that not using concrete gives me a longer useful life.
Because all materials expand and contract, even concrete. It just does it at a different rate than the lumber it is surrounding. This inevitably leads to areas between the concrete and the wood where water can pool. The concrete then acts as a cup holding the water in place leading to premature rotting of the wooden post.
Including treated lumber.
By placing gravel in the bottom of the hole I help aid the drainage of water away from the lumber.
Then I just fill the rest with dirt or I may even mix a bit more gravel in with it and be sure to compact the soil well after plumbing and leveling.
It also helps to dig a little deeper than normal to set the post if you can. In my area 12" is the recommended depth but I usually go 18" or even 24" depending on the soil characteristics and ground level.
If I'm digging close to or on a slope, I'll always go 24"or more if possible.
After a hurricane rolls through, fences always lean, if they're still standing at all. Not using concrete allows you to just stand the fence back up. Reset the soil around it and move on to other repairs.
This technique works for me in my setting. If you live in Alaska it may not be the best for you, I don't know.
Alright some of you may have noticed that when I attached the diagonal braces, I flushed it with the side posts but not for the top of the cross beam.
What gives you ask?
It was actually a last minute, on the fly, design change.
I had planned to cut notches into the bottom side of each of the rafters to fit over the cross beams. I measured 2" down from the top of the beams to allow for clearance depending on the placement of the rafters. Then as the project progressed I realized that time would not permit, so I switched to pocket hole screws instead.
I may still go back and cut the notches as I originally intended when I get time but for now the pocket holes seem to work fine.