No self respecting vanity dresser would be complete with out a jewelry box.
This design offers three drawers with two different sizes. A larger bottom drawer and two smaller top drawers. Drawer dividers can be made and placed inside each drawer for better organization of your jewelry.
Larger pieces such as necklaces and watches can be placed in the bottom drawer. Smaller pieces such as rings, ear rings and bracelets can be placed in the more appropriately sized top drawers.
Let's build that!
DIY: Jewelry Box
TIPS: The following measurements may be substituted.
1.5" = 1x2's
2.5" = 1x3's
3.5" = 1x4's
5.5" = 1x6's
Use caution working with solid lumber wider than 1x6's. Especially soft woods such as pine. I find they show a greater propensity to warp, twist and cup. Gluing boards side by side, otherwise known as a glue up, will offer greater stability across the project.
2 - Top and Bottom Pieces @ 16" x 5.5" x 1/2"
4 - Corner Pieces @ 5.5" x 1/2" x 1/2" (not depicted in video)
2 - Side Pieces @ 6" x 5.5" x 1/2"
1 - Middle divider @ 16.5" x 5.5" x 1/4" (not depicted in video)
4 - Guide Pieces @ 5.5" x 1/2" x 1/2"
1- Guide Piece @ 5.5" x 7/8" x 1/2" (part of the center guide)
1 - Guide Piece @ 5.5" x 1" x 1/2" (part of the center guide)
4 - Drawer sides @ 6.5 x 2.5"
6 - Drawer sides @ 5.5" x 2.5"
2 - Drawer sides @14.75" x 2.5"
1 - Drawer bottom @ 15.25 x 5" x 1/4"
2 - Drawer bottoms @ 7" x 5" x 1/4"
Cut the top and bottom to length. You can route the dado for the top center drawer guide now if you would like. I chose to wait until after the next step and measured 8-1/4" over from each side.
Cut the four corner pieces with the grain running perpendicular to the grain of the top and bottom boards. Wood glue and clamp in place as shown.
This step was not depicted in the video.
Cut the sides to length and route all corresponding dadoes.
Cut the middle divider to length and attach the side pieces. It is always better to start assembly from the center and work your way out when possible.
Attach the top and bottom pieces with glue. Clamp in place and wait until dry.
While the carcass of the jewelry box is drying in the clamps it would be a good idea to start on the drawers. Cut all the sides to length and width.
Then size all of the drawer bottoms.
Be sure to route the dadoes for the guides into all six drawer sides. Then make all necessary adjustments and route the 1/4" dado for the drawer bottoms as depicted in the video.
Cut the drawer guides to size. The center drawer guide is the only one that is more than one piece. It is two pieces glued together at 90 degrees. The one tricky thing to take note of here would be to ensure this piece will be even with the guide on the other side of the drawer. If it isn't then the drawers will not be level and this could throw off how the drawers operate.
Be sure to take an exact measurement of exactly how deep of a dado you have routed into the top. Then add the exact measurement of how far down from the top of the jewelry box sides you routed the dado for the opposite drawer guide.
In this instance in these photos the dado for the center guide is 1/8" deep. The dado for the opposite side guide in step 3 is 3/4". Adding the two together you get 7/8".
Dry fit all the drawers to ensure proper fit and operation of the drawers. Make adjustments where needed. I used a number 4 hand plane to make slight adjustments for each guide before continuing.
This step is also why I chose to hold off attaching the drawer fronts to the drawers. So I could actually see what my tolerances were for each drawer both front and back.
Once you are satisfied with the way everything fits together. Glue and clamp the drawer guides in place.
While the drawer guides are drying you can attach the drawer fronts to the drawers. I simply measured for proper overhangs and glued in place.
I used the same honey maple stain I used for the vanity dresser, After two coats of stain and three coats of satin polyurethane we are left with a pretty good looking jewelry box that is perfect for not just a little girls room but any lucky woman's room.
I did not place a back on the jewelry box. The reason was because it was always going to be referenced off the back of the vanity dresser and the rear would never be seen. It would be easy to route some recessed rabbets into the back and place a back panel. You would have to shorten up the drawers by the same measurement if you wanted the box to be completely enclosed.
The only thing not shown in the finished picture above are the drawer pulls. Obviously this is a matching piece and part of a set. The drawer pulls will be matched with the vanity dresser. I did not put them on for this photo because I did not want people to get distracted from the actual jewelry box itself.
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